mercredi, février 14, 2007

Tepito por dentro

Retrato de un barrio agónico

Tepito por dentro

Drogas, armas, corrupción, violencia, santería, miseria. Palabras que definen a Tepito, barrio viejo e infame que a duras penas sobrevive al nuevo siglo, víctima de sus excesos, preso de sus curas. Los proyectos gubernamentales para su rescate van y vienen y Tepito los sobrevive a todos; esta semana se anunció uno más que, como los otros, promete meter en orden a Tepito. Promesa conocida en el barrio. En Los bandidos de Río Frío, Manuel Payno dijo de los tepiteños: "Vivían, se enfermaban, sanaban, se morían como perros sin apelar a nada ni a nadie más que a ellos mismos". La descripción, un siglo después, sigue viva

ALBERTO Nájar

De puesto en puesto, la noticia se esparce por todo el barrio de Tepito.

"Zara llegó con don Robert", es el mensaje, y de inmediato decenas de diableros corren hasta el fondo de la cerrada Díaz de León, donde de una camioneta se descargan cientos de blusas, sacos, vestidos, faldas y pantalones.

Todos con la envoltura original. Todos de la marca Zara.

Es miércoles al mediodía y los pocos compradores que chacharean en la zona parecen no percatarse de la maniobra, pues el acceso a la cerrada fue bloqueado desde la esquina con González Ortega.

Un par de tepiteños se acercan para tratar de adquirir, de primera mano, alguna de las prendas que los diableros sacan a toda prisa. Pero no hubo suerte.

La ropa que trajo don Roberto Hurtado, como se conoce a la mercancía robada que llega a Tepito, ya tiene dueño y los diableros corren para llevarla. Es, como dicen en Tepito, una entrega.

La operación dura menos de 20 minutos. Ese miércoles se supo que don Robert realizó otras 15 visitas al barrio.

El viernes siguiente la ropa de Zara aparece en los puestos de la cerrada de Matamoros, Toltecas y el callejón de Tenochtitlan.

A mitad de precio.

¤ ¤ ¤
Es Tepito.

Tierra de nadie para el gobierno capitalino. Sede alterna del cártel de Tijuana, según la Procuraduría General de la República (PGR). Enemigo número uno de disqueras y fabricantes de ropa con marca prestigiada. Centro de culto a la Santa Muerte, a la que veneran delincuentes como Daniel Arizmendi, El Mochaorejas.

Diariamente, según informes de la delegación Cuauhtémoc, en las 57 manzanas que constituyen el barrio se generan millones de dólares en actividades lícitas e ilícitas que, paradójicamente, no parecen repartirse entre los tepiteños.

De acuerdo con el Instituto Nacional de Estadística, Geografía e Informática (INEGI), los habitantes del barrio son de los más pobres de la capital, con ingresos de entre uno y tres salarios mínimos.

Así, marginados y millonarios conviven en el mismo espacio, de la misma forma que comparten calles 40 bandas de crimen organizado y 64 organizaciones de comerciantes, con cuatro grupos culturales y cinco sitios históricos, el más importante de ellos el lugar en que se capturó, el 13 de agosto de 1521, al último tlatoani azteca, Cuauhtemotzin. En ese lugar existe ahora la iglesia de la Concepción Tequipehucan, que en náhuatl significa "lugar donde empezó la esclavitud".

En el barrio nacieron los Batallones Rojos, que junto con Venustiano Carranza declararon la primera huelga general del siglo XX, en contra del usurpador Victoriano Huerta. En una vecindad tepiteña -a Casa Blanca, en Peluqueros y avenida del Trabajo- Oscar Lewis escribió Los hijos de Sánchez, novela que el gobierno de Adolfo Ruiz Cortines decomisó porque "insultaba" al pueblo de México.

También en Tepito nacieron figuras deportivas como Arsacio El Kid Vanegas Arroyo, un luchador que, presumen sus vecinos, compartió la técnica del costalazo con Fidel Castro y Ernesto El Che Guevara, a quienes conoció en el café La Habana en la década de los cincuenta.

"Se iban a los cerros a practicar lucha cuerpo a cuerpo -cuenta Rafael López, editor de La Hija de la Palanca, una revista tepiteña de literatura-. Les enseñó cómo caer bien, a rodar, a tumbar al contrincante. Yo creo que las clases sí les sirvieron".

tepito_mercado1Mucha actividad para un barrio que oficialmente no existe, pues el espacio al que se le llama Tepito forma parte de la colonia Ampliación Morelos.

Es, pues, zona de contrastes: los domingos en el Eje 1 Norte (Rayón), entre Allende y República de Brasil, se instala un tianguis de libros viejos cuyo volumen es similar al de los establecimientos de Donceles.

Basta cruzar el eje para comprar, en un puesto de insignias militares de Jesús Carranza, a 50 metros de Matamoros, instructivos viejos de la Secretaría de la Defensa Nacional (Sedena) sobre manejo de bombas y explosivos.

Pero Tepito es también un cuerpo enfermo, agónico por las huellas que dejan la venta de armas y drogas y el excesivo ambulantaje.

"Los chamacos ya no quieren estudiar, prefieren atender puestos o vender coca -lamenta Rafael López-. Luego ves chavos de 11 y 12 años que andan asaltando".

La deserción escolar es un problema serio en el barrio, a tal punto que, el ciclo pasado, en la primaria Lorenza Rosales se canceló el turno vespertino. En otros planteles la asistencia fue escasa... y peligrosa.

El párroco de La Concepción Tequipehucan, Héctor Tello, cuenta que hace unos meses un estudiante de la secundaria que se ubica en Gorostiza y Tenochtitlan fue expulsado por mal comportamiento.

"Mandaron llamar al papá, que resultó ser uno de los narcotraficantes de por aquí. Cuando le dan la queja le dice al maestro: 'me lo pasas porque me lo pasas, a ver cómo le haces pero tiene que sacar su certificado'".

-¿Así, por las buenas?

-No, le dijo que le iba a dar un dinero. El maestro muy digno dijo que no, pero entonces el papá le advirtió: "mira, de todos modos te va a ir mal, así que mejor agárralo".

Hace unas semanas, el adolescente recibió su certificado.

El incidente es un síntoma de la agonía tepiteña. Y, paradójicamente, lo es también de su cura.

"Todos los días vienen un promedio de 10 jóvenes a jurar que no probarán drogas -cuenta el sacerdote-. Es un medio muy violento, pero dentro de todo, el 60% de las personas son nobles; es el otro 40% el que no los deja progresar. Los tiene de rehenes".

¤Lo negro del negro Tepito

En realidad, cuenta Alfonso Hernández, director del Centro de Estudios Tepiteños (CET), la sepsis de Tepito empezó a generalizarse desde hace dos décadas, cuando se construyeron los ejes viales.

El proyecto, impuesto como todas las decisiones del gobierno relacionadas con la zona, "rompió el esquema de solidaridad barrial que siempre habíamos tenido", pues además de que se echaron abajo cientos de viviendas se desató una fuerte especulación con los terrenos frente a las nuevas avenidas.

Fue en esa década, los años setenta, cuando la fayuca llegó a Tepito, de la mano de policías y funcionarios. "Había crisis en los talleres, ya casi nadie compraba lo que hacíamos -recuerda un viejo tepiteño-. Y la verdad, con la fayuca empezamos a ganar más dinero que nunca".

La combinación fue explosiva: una comunidad acostumbrada a regirse con sus propias reglas, históricamente marginada y con una pobreza endémica se encontró de pronto con, literalmente, ríos de dinero.

"No sabíamos qué hacer con tanto -recuerda Raquel Olivares, hoy lideresa de ambulantes-. Se malgastó en muchas cosas; a los chamacos les compraban lo que querían, coches, motos, pistolas para defender el puesto. Porque eso sí, todos se salieron de la escuela y se metieron al negocio".

Pero tras la fayuca llegó también la corrupción. "Había que darles a todos, desde el granadero más triste hasta los jefazos de la Judicial -cuenta un vendedor de televisores en Eje 1 Norte-. El más cabrón era (Arturo) El Negro Durazo, siempre mandaba a los de la DIPD (Dirección de Investigaciones para la Prevención de la Delincuencia) por la cuota. Y ni modo de no darles, les gustaba madrear gente".

Empero, los agentes de la DIPD llegaban también por otras razones. "Tenían dos bandas de asaltabancos trabajando desde Tepito", contaba Raymundo Añorve, El Papel, ex asaltante, secuestrador y robabancos.

Semanas antes de su muerte por VIH recordaba la historia de su padre, que empezó como fayuquero y a quien la DIPD obligó a formar un grupo de asaltabancos.

"Lo agarraron una vez y le pidieron mucha feria; como no le alcanzó le dijeron: 'junta a tus cuates y asalta un banco, nosotros te lo ponemos'. Cuando mi jefe se quiso salir le pusieron una supermadriza y hasta nos mandaron las fotos".

Tepito, entonces, cambió de piel. Y la segunda muda ocurrió tras el sismo de 1985, cuando desaparecieron la mayor parte de las vecindades que, hasta ese momento, eran el último refugio de las familias tradicionales.

"Antes los vecinos cuidaban a los hijos de todos porque estaban a la vista en los patios, pero con los condominios de ahora ya nadie se preocupa por los demás -explica Alfonso Hernández-. Se aceleró la desintegración familiar, y como ya no había talleres, lo único que nos quedó fue el tianguis".

Pero a Tepito le faltaba vivir lo peor, que llegó justo con el aire modernizador del gobierno salinista.

Y es que cuando los productos que en el barrio se compraban a escondidas -y con el riesgo de que se perdieran en un asalto allí mismo- se ofrecieron en todas las tiendas del país, las ganancias de los tepiteños se vinieron abajo.

Para algunos el golpe fue incluso mayor al que les propinó el sismo. "Ya estábamos acostumbrados a gastar y gastar -confiesa un ex fayuquero que ahora vende pantalones pirata-. Por eso, cuando llegó la droga, muchos se metieron al negocio".

No fue difícil: igual que una década antes, la cocaína llegó al barrio con la protección de policías y funcionarios. "Los mismos que nos traían la fayuca entregaban la cocaína", cuenta un chacharero de la calle Matamoros.

A la droga siguieron las armas, y entonces el círculo se cerró. Tepito se convirtió en un barrio inexpugnable, terreno fértil para todo tipo de negocios ilícitos.

Los discos pirata empezaron a reproducirse masivamente en Matamoros, Caridad y Fray Bartolomé de las Casas, en parte porque es una actividad muy productiva pero, sobre todo, porque hacerlo en el barrio representa una garantía de que nadie se meta en el negocio.

Igual sucedió con la pornografía, la ropa de marca pirata, las bebidas adulteradas, los perfumes falsificados, la mercancía robada...

Tepito evolucionó del islote de 1337, cuando se fundó, a una especie de Isla Caimán para la delincuencia, donde todo lo prohibido se podía vender... Y comprar.

Hoy, según datos de la PGJDF, en el barrio existen 40 bandas dedicadas al secuestro exprés, el robo de vehículos, el asalto a transportistas, la falsificación de documentos oficiales, la piratería de discos y ropa y la clonación de tarjetas de crédito o de líneas celulares.

Hasta sicarios se puede contratar.

Todo tiene precio. La semana pasada una pistola calibre 9 milímetros se cotizaba en 15 mil pesos, un rifle de asalto AK-47 costaba 30 mil y una Pietro Beretta, el arma de cargo de la Secretaría de Seguridad Pública (SSP), se vendía en 12 mil pesos.

El contacto se realiza en Tenochtitlan 25 y 55, en Toltecas y Matamoros o en el puesto de Jesús Carranza y Matamoros. Las armas, adquiridas por catálogo y con un anticipo de 50%, se prueban en las unidades habitacionales conocidas como Los Palomares y La Fortaleza, en Toltecas, aunque a veces la prueba se realiza en la colonia Valle Gómez, donde se cierra el trato.

Una tarjeta clonada de Bancomer con duración de un día (el tiempo promedio que tarda el banco en detectarla) cuesta 500 pesos, mientras que una American Express con posibilidades de utilizarse durante tres días se cotiza en 2 mil 500 pesos.

Los plásticos se entregan nuevecitos, incluso en algunos hasta se imprime la foto del comprador. El negocio -que según datos de la PGJDF era administrado por Johnny Laguet, El Johnny- opera en el callejón de Tenochtitlan, desde un puesto donde aparentemente se reparan aparatos de control remoto, y en Aztecas con la fachada de un expendio de teléfonos celulares.

Los huevos de tortuga cuestan cinco pesos la unidad. Videos de pornografía infantil grabados en Acapulco o el Distrito Federal valen 60 pesos, al igual que los casetes filmados en hoteles de Tlalpan, La Merced o Garibadi, con o sin el consentimiento de los actores...

Pero el negocio fuerte es, todavía, la venta de droga. "Si controlas eso tienes todo -afirmaba El Papel-. Esto es como en Colombia, donde desde Cali se controlaba todo; igual Tepito, con la droga maneja la Guerrero, la Romero Rubio, Polanco".

"Pero sobre todo a los cabrones, porque si necesitas que maten a alguien agarras un güey que ande erizo y le dices: '¿Sabes qué?, si te echas a aquél te doy tanta coca'. Me cae que sí lo hacen. Es más, ya no se maneja dinero, los capos no hablan de billetes sino de gramos o kilos. Hasta las quesadillas las pagan con eso".

¤No hay chivas

tepito-operativo-jpgJueves por la mañana.

"Allí -contaba El Papel- te encuentras chavas que se prostituyen por 20 pesos, lo que cuesta un punto de coca. Son chavas bonitas que no encuentras ni en los mejores cabaretes, pero que hacen cualquier cosa para drogarse".

Raymundo señala con discreción a la vecindad de Jesús Carranza número 6. La luz del día y la intensa actividad comercial son el mejor refugio para vigilar el predio al que entran y salen decenas de jóvenes y adolescentes, algunos de ellos armados.

Según la PGJDF, en esa vecindad se almacena la mayor parte de la cocaína que ingresa al barrio. De allí se surten, por ejemplo, los vendedores al menudeo de Gorostiza, Peralvillo, Peñón y hasta del callejón de la Amargura, en Garibaldi.

Es una red añeja que empezó a tejerse antes de la guerra de 1997, cuando las pandillas de Los Arias y de Jorge Ortiz Reyes, El Tanque, se disputaron a balazos el territorio.

"Empiezas de 18 (vigilante) y después te ponen unas onzas. Si las vendes te dan otras y luego te llegan a dar hasta un kilo a crédito ?explicaba El Papel?. Te dicen llévatelo, no hay pedo, cuando lo vendas me lo pagas; así es como empezaron varios que ahora son grandes en el barrio".

Al principio la droga llegó a través de agentes de la Policía Judicial Federal (PJF), quienes prácticamente controlaban el negocio. Pero cuando las bandas crecieron, los policías se convirtieron en empleados de los capos.

Hoy, después de que la PGR desintegró la célula tepiteña de los hermanos Arellano Félix, la cocaína de los federales volvió por sus fueros. Y es que el mercado de la droga no conoce de aprehensiones.

El Papel decía que a la semana se vendían 100 kilos. Otros, la semana pasada, juraron que los embarques eran mayores: "cien son mamadas".

Cierto o no, el negocio sigue boyante, con transacciones diarias que implican cientos de miles de pesos.

El 3 de julio en la esquina de Tenochtitlan y Rivero fue detenido un adolescente de 15 años que llevaba 150 mil pesos a la vecindad de Jesús Carranza.

Cuando los judiciales que lo arrestaron supieron para dónde iba el dinero lo dejaron libre. "Nomás le quitaron 10 mil pesos", cuenta un chacharero que presenció los hechos.

Se trata, pues, de una estructura en la que no caben extraños. Por eso, intentar meterse a la vecindad es imposible. "Ya te conocen, te han visto varias veces rondando por aquí -explicó El Papel-. Casi casi saben quién eres".

Y sí. Porque en Tepito, a pesar de que algunos fines de semana acuden hasta 200 mil compradores, los delincuentes siempre se enteran cuándo llegan policías o periodistas, por una razón simple: la zona está plagada de 18.

En calles como Florida, Aztecas o Tenochtitlan abundan los niños y adolescentes que aparentan jugar con walkie talkies, pero en realidad lo que hacen es reportar a las personas que formulan preguntas sospechosas o que se acercan demasiado a los predios donde se vende droga.

Estos 18 -a quienes se pagan sus labores con unos puntos de cocaína- no son los únicos vigías. A la puerta de cada vecindad siempre hay jóvenes armados que custodian la entrada, e incluso en calles como Tenochtitlan y su callejón, Matamoros, Toltecas, Francisco Díaz de León, Manuel Doblado y González Ortega la vigilancia se realiza, además, desde las azoteas.

Armando Palomo, ex subdelegado territorial en la zona de Guerrero y Tepito, cuenta que en una ocasión se le ocurrió ordenar el retiro de puestos instalados sin permiso en Tenochtitlan.

"Con los inspectores iban unos cuantos policías para cuidarlos, pero en cuanto llegaron a esa calle les empezaron a llover balazos desde las azoteas. Salieron corriendo, espantados. Luego supe que algunos narquillos se pusieron nerviosos cuando llegaron los policías, porque pensaron que el operativo era contra ellos".

Pero quizá la mejor protección que reciben los delincuentes es el comercio ambulante, que ha cerrado con puestos metálicos la mayor parte de las calles del barrio... Y el miedo de los tepiteños. En el barrio, es secreto a voces, el que es chiva (delator) se muere.

En noviembre del año pasado, por ejemplo, un joven fue asesinado en la unidad habitacional conocida como Los Palomares, en la calle Toltecas.

El cadáver permaneció dos días tirado porque nadie quiso dar parte a la policía, "y cuando se animaron -recuerda un vecino-, la banda no quería dejar entrar al (agente del) Ministerio Público. Nos tuvimos que fajar con ellos, porque el muerto ya empezaba a apestar".

¤La herencia

Hay momentos en que, al avanzar, no se toca el suelo.

Apiñados en el pequeño espacio que dejan libres los puestos de Aztecas, cientos de personas empujan, se detienen, se resignan a que la multitud decida el camino. Al menos durante los próximo 20 metros.

De un lado y otro cuelgan pantalones Guess o Hillfinger de a 100 pesos; camisas Versace de 150, tenis Reebok o Nike de 300...

La multitud, de pronto, se hace a un lado para dejar pasar un expendio rodante de hamburguesas y papas fritas. No hay problema: el comal con el aceite hirviente y un tanque de gas de 10 kilos que lo alimenta son razón suficiente para evitar las quejas.

Detrás viene un carro de supermercado con refrescos y cervezas, y metros más adelante aparece otro con tequila, brandy, ron y hasta piña colada. Un bar ambulante made in Tepis.

Y así cada fin de semana, los días de mayor venta del barrio. Según la delegación Cuauhtémoc, en Tepito trabajan 12 mil 500 comerciantes, agrupados en 64 organizaciones, pero líderes de ambulantes y ex funcionarios afirman que, en realidad, podrían ser hasta 20 mil los vendedores.

En promedio cada uno paga 100 pesos diarios como cuota a las organizaciones (la tarifa más alta es de 500), lo que significa que en estas cooperaciones se generan 2 millones de pesos por jornada.

El destino de tanto dinero es incierto. Según Dolores Padierna, jefa delegacional en Cuauhtémoc, tan sólo por derecho de piso las organizaciones de comerciantes adeudan 176 millones de pesos a la delegación. Pero hay más.

"No pagan agua, ni luz, ni el servicio de limpia o la vigilancia ?se queja?. El dinero se lo quedan, ni siquiera lo usan para mejorar el barrio".

Y deveras que lo necesita.

Un diagnóstico de la delegación revela que 25% de las vecindades sólo tienen un baño para todos los inquilinos, e incluso se detectaron viviendas donde se hacinan hasta seis familias enteras. En contraste, en calles como Aztecas, Florida y Tenochtitlan existen predios habitados por una sola persona, encargada de cuidar los departamentos habilitados como bodegas.

Lo peor es que incluso algunos grupos, como la Asociación de Comerciantes Establecidos del Barrio de Tepito, que preside Miguel Galán Ayala, privatizaron las instalaciones deportivas del barrio.

"Son el Kid Azteca y el Maracaná -explica Padierna-. El gobierno los construyó pero los manejan ellos, le cobran cuotas a la gente y hasta los rentan para fiestas. Y el mantenimiento lo paga la delegación".

La organización de Galán es la más grande de Tepito, con 900 afiliados que se ubican en las calles comercialmente más importantes: Eje 1 Norte, Aztecas y Florida. El traspaso de un local en estas calles se cotiza en 2 millones de pesos.

Y no es el único negocio de Galán. Datos de la PGJDF indican que el dirigente es uno de los principales distribuidores de discos pirata, e incluso cuenta con dos bodegas para su elaboración, una en Iztapalapa y otra en la carretera a Cuernavaca.

Para vigilar sus locales Miguel Galán se apoya en 20 golpeadores que, cuentan en el barrio, son expertos en artes marciales. Y cuando los guardias no son suficientes, el líder contrata a la banda de Los Morelianos, de la colonia Morelos.

Este grupo es el responsable de los disturbios a fines del año pasado, tras dos operativos para decomisar mercancía robada.

Según la jefa delegacional (y algunos otros como el párroco Héctor Tello), estos hechos "fueron un circo, un teatro para causar hiperviolencia y culpar de ello a la delegación".

A tal grado llega el poder de Miguel Galán que incluso tenía a su servicio dos patrullas, una de la SSP y otra de la Policía Judicial capitalina.

"Imagínate lo que hacían con esas unidades -advierte Padierna-. Cuando llegué le pedí que las devolviera pero se niega a hacerlo, al contrario, las quiere comprar, con torreta, placas y todo".

No es esta la única oferta que ha recibido. Al principio de su gestión, cuenta Padierna, Galán y otros líderes como El Johnny, María Elena Luna, Lorenzo Villalpando y Marisa Suárez le pidieron que les vendiera el barrio.

?¿Tepito entero?

tepito-operativo-4-jpg?Sí, preguntaron cuánto quería por no meterme al barrio, que la delegación no hiciera nada y ellos siguieran con el control. Pero no acepté, conmigo no han podido y por eso me atacan.

Detrás de esta impuidad está el PRI.

"Tepito es una bomba de tiempo, una tierra de nadie con una gobernabilidad corrupta -sentencia-. Se mueven millones de dólares al día pero hay mucha pobreza en la gente, y cada día se agudiza más porque las mafias se apoderan de los puestos y compran las casas para usarlas como bodegas o vender droga".

Así, las opciones son pocas. "Los que han encontrado la manera de salir se han ido, pero los que no tienen de otra están condenados a quedarse y trabajar para las mafias".

Por lo pronto, la semana pasada la delegación puso en marcha un programa de 17 millones de pesos para rehabilitar el barrio que considera, entre otras actividades, reparar luminarias, reconstruir banquetas y, lo más importante, retirar comerciantes ambulantes de calles como Caridad, Toltecas, Jesús Carranza, Matamoros, Fray Bartolomé y Peralvillo.

En estas calles los puestos se cotizan, en promedio, en 200 mil pesos cada uno, y se calcula que serán al menos 450 los que serán removidos.

Es decir, a líderes del comercio como Miguel Galán, José Cornejo Campos, Alfonso Gaona Pichardo, Miguel Campuzano Flores, Elvira Razo de Miranda, Martha Valdovinos, Ernesto Hernández, Jesús Blas, Felipa Dávalos de González, María Alma Castro, Leopoldo Yllescas López, Aarón Núñez Ibarra, Mario Blanco Jacundi, Leobardo Beltrán Castillo y Florencio Villalpando Portillo -los que controlan esas calles- la operación les costará 90 millones de pesos.

¿Estarán de acuerdo con el proyecto?

¤Palabras mayores

Al padre Héctor Tello le gusta presumir que, domingo a domingo, en cada una de las siete misas que oficia siempre acuden entre 10 y 14 adolescentes.

Es un triunfo, dice, por la degradación social que existe en el barrio. Y lo es más por las condiciones en que se da esta afluencia.

"Hay mucha presión de los traficantes de droga, porque no quieren perder clientes -dice-. Cualquier cosa que los distraiga, que les enseñe que hay otras opciones, lo ven como un riesgo a su negocio, les mueve el piso".

?¿Lo han amenazado?

?A mí no, pero a los muchachos los presionan mucho para que no vengan. Cuando uno empieza a interesarse por ellos le hacen como al padre Lascuráin (párroco de San Francisco, también de Tepito), que lo secuestraron por alentar a los muchachos a dejar la droga.

Ciertamente, la presión no es sólo para la Iglesia.

Rafael López, de La Hija de la Palanca, reconoce que cada vez es más difícil promover actividades culturales en el barrio, en parte por la apatía de las autoridades, pero sobre todo porque los tepiteños de ahora tienen otros intereses.

"Tanto comercio le está dando en la madre a Tepito -lamenta-. El billete es el billete y por ganarlo los chavos descuidan la lectura, no les interesa el box o cualquier otra cosa".

Fue por eso que el grupo Plástica Humana abandonó el barrio. Es por eso que el taller de artes y oficios que propuso Luis Arévalo -reconocido incluso por la Unicef, por su trabajo con niños- para rescatar de la droga a los tepiteños está en veremos.

Y es esta la razón por la que las ligas de futbol están en vías de extinción, o que los deportivos de la zona se utilicen ahora para traficar drogas, cruzar apuestas o como guarida de asaltantes.

Pese a todo, Rafael López no pierde la esperanza. "En 1998 hicimos un concurso de cuento en las escuelas de primaria y secundaria y recibimos un chingo de trabajos. Eso demuestra que no todos los chavos están perdidos, y que nomás hace falta un empujoncito para alivianarlos".

Sigue. "Está demostrado que cuando de joven te meten a escribir, pintar o hacer deporte está más cabrón que caigas en el vicio. Mírame, soy un ejemplo".

Si bien difícil, la batalla de los movimientos culturales del barrio por sobrevivir se antoja sencilla en comparación con el adversario que enfrenta el padre Tello.

Y es que en Tepito cada vez son más las personas que rinden culto a la Santa Muerte, una imagen popular entre los delincuentes porque concede favores que la Iglesia católica condena.

"Es el santo de todos los narcos de por aquí -cuenta un vendedor de pantalones de la calle Aztecas-. En todo el barrio hay altares de la imagen".

Nadie sabe cómo llegó el culto al barrio. Algunos afirman que va de la mano con la venta y adicción a la cocaína.

La Santa Muerte forma parte de los ritos santeros, pero los tepiteños le rinden culto de una forma peculiar: junto a las veladoras de rigor colocan una piedra de cocaína (pesa una onza), una jeringa con heroína, un vaso de licor y unas monedas. Cada una de estas ofrendas es lo que se pide sea protegido.

mas-mapa.jpgHasta ahora, el padre Tello dice que el culto no se ha extendido, pero de todos modos se preocupa.

Tal vez por eso la asistencia a sus misas lo enorgullece.

"Es una tarea difícil -concluye-. Es una lucha del bien contra el mal".¤

Territorio de ñeros y valedores, zona prohibida a chivas y azules con o sin uniforme, Tepito cobra cara la ingenuidad de los marchantes que lo mantienen con vida.

Desde los relojes Citizen Titannium que se ofertan a 100 pesos "porque vienen de una transa", según garantizan sus escurridizos vendedores, hasta las aspirinas o la sal de uvas con bicarbonato que se venden como coca o tachas "bien efectivas". Cualquier día es bueno para perderse en Tepito: el sábado y el domingo, cuando toneladas y toneladas de mercancía ocultan cualquier forma de orientación geográfica para salir del barrio, o un miércoles cualquiera en que se pretenda visitar el territorio de los garreros, con prendas usadas de a un peso la unidad con la garantía de que, apenas salir de Tenochtitlan, el asalto es seguro.

Y es que Tepito, dicen los mapas oficiales, no existe, porque es un apéndice de la Morelos. Como tampoco hay, a simple vista, la multitud de delitos que se cometen sobre la banqueta, apenas al cruzar el zaguán de las vecindades.

Esta es, pues, una guía de lo que apenas se esconde, un mapa de las ofertas que dan fama al barrio. Un prontuario para sobrevivir al ghetto.

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s4nt0 a dit…

muy, pero muy bueno este escrito, lo lei todo, me gusto mucho, algunos lugares de tepito los conozco y los ubique, otros de plano no, me late mucho que la banda escriba acerca de esta ciudad, ah y por cierto, respecto al comentario, siempre q fumo lo hago en lugares abiertos, y con gente q tambien fuma.

saludos

pedrolv a dit…

Es precisamente lo que pretendo hacer con este blog s4lm0n, ir coleccionando historias de esta nuestra gran ciudad, ah y... se aceptan colaboraciones wey, vi un post en tu blog que habla de la ciudad, y pense que no estaria mal ponerlo aqui, que te parece carnal?

HB a dit…

Te la rifaste con este post.

No mamar esta poca drema.

MUY BUENO .

Anonyme a dit…

Hola Pedro: Interesante lo que escribiste acerca del famoso Tepito. Desconocia muchos detalles de este barrio..incluso que "officialmente" no existe.

Esta bueno.

¿Ahi vives?

Unknown a dit…

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